The Roots of Black Fashion: Aesthetic or Ancestry?

Strolling the runway of freedom  

No athleisure wear here: Civil Rights activists of the 1960s dressed not just to look respectable but to make a statement. Image credit: The Associated Press 

From iconic hoop earrings to the rise of sneaker culture, trends started by Black Americans have long since been foundation of American fashion. While many fashions have been reduced to just an "aesthetic,"  it’s vital to acknowledge their cultural and ancestral roots. Black people are revolutionary, creative and inspiring; everything we touch turns into gold. From the way we transform music, dance and even language, Black creativity sets the standard. When Black creators work their magic, things don't just trend, the whole shifts. So imagine the impact when Black people don't just participate in fashion but reclaim it. 

Dating back to the 1960s to 1970s, fashion played a critical and powerful role in the Civil Rights Movement. During protests, activists started wearing their Sunday best: polished slacks, beautiful dresses and neatly pressed shirts. They wore this not just to look respectable but to make a statement. Their appearance challenged the racist narrative that painted Black people as unkempt or lesser than.  Through clothing, they were saying, “We’re more than what you think we are. We’re worthy. We will be seen. We will be heard.”    

To fully comprehend Black influence on today's fashions, we have to understand the culture that started it — going all the way back to the motherland. The clothing Africans wore wasn’t just beautiful, it represented status, wealth, community, spirituality and class.  After the trading system, clothing evolved into intricate textiles and patterns such as Kente cloth and mudcloth. The designs weren't just a fashion piece or made merely for beauty, they were designed with intention. There was intention to tell a story, mark an occasion and show pride and gratitude for heritage. 

Historically, African prints like Kente were worn only by Ghanaian royalty. Image credits (l-r): Wilfred Tadjo, Andy Coffe, RDNE Stock Project  

Black Americans don't just participate in fashion, we’re  creators  and influence style in unexplainable ways. Whether it's how Black people do prom or how we wear our hair, Black fashion today is everywhere.

Unfortunately, it often goes uncredited or is typically only praised when worn by non-Black influencers or celebrities. That erasure is part of the reason this conversation matters. 

Who wears these cornrows best? Depends on who does the wearing ... and the judging.  Image credits (l-r): Natalia García Prieto, _brunovisual, Hannah Bickmore

Black Americans don't just participate in fashion, we create it. We shape the culture. We set the tone. And we deserve the praise and recognition for our impact.